Down the Ganges - 1971

"Among purifiers, I am the wind: I am Rama among the warriors: the shark among fish: Ganges among the rivers."  Chapter 10 Divine Glory in the Bhagavad Gita

 
In Rishikesh, at that time still relatively undeveloped, we crossed the Lakshman  Jhoola bridge to visit Gita Bhavan and strolled along the lane of huts leading up to Swarg Ashram.  We joined other pilgrims in singing Jai Ganga Mayi as the oarsman rowed us across the river in his ferry boat. We paid our respects to this great river as it came tumbling out of the Himalayan foothills and listened to the stories of the origin of the goddess Ganga.  I embraced this ancient way of worshipping the feminine divine force.  Walking in these archetypally symbolic places, surrounded by the living presence of nature touched the nascent yearnings of my heart for a greater reality beneath that of the senses. It was here that Gurudev bestowed the mala I use to this day with instructions for recitations.   

Haridwar was the next stop along the journey.  


At Hari ki Pauri, we joined in the evening arti, walked along the ghats and spent a few nights in a shelter overlooking the Ganga river which, in the centre of this town was bound by a canal. Considered to be the gateway to the Gods, we felt especially blessed by our guru’s introduction to this holy city.  As a group, it was also part of our experiential learning to develop harmony and understanding between us similar to that of a family.  In our guru’s style of training shikshas, that became as important for spiritual growth as the pilgrimage itself. 

Our next holy city along the Ganges river was Kanpur which sits between the Ganga and Yamuna rivers.  Although it has a colourful secular history, its significance for us was spiritual. The city's name is believed to derive from Kanhiyapur  from the Hindi meaning "town of Kanhaiya", making it a city special to Lord Krishna.  I especially was taken by a Krishna bhajan which I sang to myself much of the time praising Kanhaiya.  After a quick visit to the banks of the Ganges and a stay at an old colonial-style hotel, we drove on to Allahabad.

Allahabad is the sacred site of the confluence of the Yumuna, Ganga and Saraswati (now extinct) rivers. The place where these rivers meet is appropriately called Sangam (union) and hosts many religious festivals and fairs.  Sangam is also known as Tirth –Raj - the royal pilgrimage centre. At the time of our visit, all was quiet.  The holy name for this city is Prayag.  I like the Mughal name, AllAhabad, given by Akbar. His great fort overlooks the Yamuna near the confluence of rivers. At Allahabad, I experienced a sense of the grandeur of the Ganga river.  Its nature seemed to change – a personal subjective experience of the river as somehow expanding as it swept towards the ocean.  The historicity of the city also attracted me


We soon moved on to Benares, or as it is now known, Varanasi or Kashi  as it is known in ancient Hindu texts.  In scriptures it is known by many other names.  It is considered by Hindus to be the sacred site of the creation of the human being.  This cosmology greatly fascinates me, coming from the western world dominated by the Adam and Eve mythology.  It is considered to be the most ancient populated city in the world. Kashi is also known to be the eternal city of Lord Shiva and populated by many gods. The city is important to Jains and Buddhists as well as Hindus.  This was our final stop on our pilgrimage.  The city of light blessed us – I could feel within my being a connection that transcended what I could see with my physical eyes, as if there was a city within a city.
 
 I sensed closure as we drove back, settling finally in Haridwar at Sravanath Ghat where we remained for a few weeks and then dissolved as a group, some of the members returning to Canada. We had grown during our experiences in ways we never could have dreamed of. We developed a desire to be in India longer and to give back to the country. 

Swamiji instilled in us a love for simplicity and weaned us off many materialistic habits.  We grew to appreciate the idea of ashram life and continued to yearn to have a place of our own.  Eventually, with the help of Guruji and his father we took it upon ourselves to establish an ashram by ourselves.  After the pilgrimage down the Ganges,  I stayed in India together with another disciple to help Gurudev obtain the land and start to build an ashram. 


He who is free from delusion, and knows me as the supreme Reality, knows all that can be known.  Therefore he adores me with his whole heart.  This is the most sacred of all the truths I have taught you.  he who has realized it becomes truly wise.  The purpose of his life is fulfilled.  Chapter 15 Devotion to the Supreme Spirit Bhagavad Gita